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Sinai has a unique and distinct character when compared with mainland Egypt. For starters, it’s all desert and sand dunes without the river Nile flowing through it.

My friend and I, we took Egypt Air one hour domestic flight from Alexandria in mainland Egypt to Sharm El Sheikh, a major Sinai city along the Red Sea. Upon arrival at our destination airport, we were swarmed by a mob of cab operators, mostly Arabs, lavishly displaying their Islamic faith icons, deceitfully swearing that they are the only way to the city.

We had planned to visit Color Canyon, White Canyon, Pharaoh Island, Mt. Horeb (where Moses received the Ten Commandments) and St. Catherine Monastery at the base of the mountain. Using Dahab — a city north of Sharm El Sheikh roughly two hours by public bus — as our base, we had two nights and little clue to begin with.

One offered to take us to Dahab for 300 Egyptian Pounds. When we told him we wanted to go to Asalah beach, he topped it up to 350 Egyptian Pounds. We gently asked him to take us to East Delta Bus Terminal instead in Sharm El Sheikh city and he quoted us 150 Egyptian Pounds, again swearing he’s the only way to get out of the airport.

As we began to walk away, they got more aggressive and intimidating. Unswayed, we left the carpark and walked into a terminal building. Inside, the information counter informed us to cross the road outside the airport vicinity where we could ride a public van to East Delta Bus Terminal for 3 Egyptian Pounds.

We got on the van. They charged us 5 Egyptian Pounds. Each.

…

A bus ticket from Sharm El Sheikh to Dahab only costs 11 Egyptian Pounds per person and can only be purchased an hour before departure time. We met an Arabic speaking Briton at the bus terminal. He suggested that we tag along with him once we reach Dahab to avoid those pesky deceitful touts.

Now, I didn’t know what to think of this Brit. He seemed like a nice kid in his early 20s but for all I know he could be a drug smuggler, serial rapist, arms dealer, or at the very best, a British MI5 agent needing a decoy. In any case, we gave him the benefit of the doubt and agreed to follow him as far as Asalah beach. My concern above everything else was to protect the female unit whom was traveling with me. She’s pretty enough to attract attention.

We stopped by two police checkpoints along the way. A plainclothes cop got on the bus and checked everyone’s identification document each time.

Upon arrival in Dahab, we were again attacked by a group of touts. This time the English kid got us covered. Speaking in Arabic, he negotiated the price to get us to Asalah beach and paid for the three of us. We didn’t pay squat, but might as well because he made us jump onto the back of a pickup truck when we were expecting a four door sedan! Just kidding.

One thing for sure, the price is nowhere close to 50 Egyptian Pounds the cab driver in Sharm El Sheikh airport was asking for.

For a moment, there was tension in the air on board the pickup truck when an Arab tout with a fake Australian accent got into argument with the Briton over our accommodation. We had not figured out our accommodation yet at that time, but we rather scout around along Asalah beach ourselves rather than taking one from touts.

Once we reached Asalah beach, again, there were many touts trying to offer us accommodation. By then I was so tired of their efforts that it was easy to ignore them. Not necessarily polite. After close to an hour lugging our backpacks, we settled for a place called Green Valley for 80 Egyptian Pounds per night.

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Green Valley is a nice little hole in the wall situated somewhere northern part of Asalah beach backpackers area. For a room with attached bathroom, warm shower, a noisy air conditioner, dusty floors and questionable bed stains I’d say 80 Egyptian Pounds is probably a little too high price to pay. We could have bargained for a better price, but our backpacks were just hurting.

Asalah has plenty of shops catered to tourists, most requires bargaining. There are plethora of restaurants and beach stalls to choose from but they all serve a similar menu. On the bright side, once we lose the backpacks there were less touts approaching us.

And the Red Sea beach walk in Asalah is charming.

Finding a place to spend the night was only the beginning. The greater challenge was to find a local tour package to cover Sinai desert excursion.